Thursday, March 1, 2007

San Pietro in Vincoli

While Peter was kept in prison, the church prayed fervently to God for him. The very night before Herod was going to bring him out, Peter, bound with two chains, was sleeping between two soldiers, while guards in front of the door were keeping watch over the prison. Suddenly an angel of the Lord appeared and a light shone in the cell. He tapped Peter on the side and woke him, saying, "Get up quickly." And the chains fell off his wrists. - Acts 12:5-7

Rome grants a lot of attention to Peter for many pretty obvious reasons, not the least of which being that he is credited as the first Pope and head of the early Christian church. Tradition holds that he was imprisoned, martyred and buried here in Rome - in fact, St. Peter's is on top of his tomb, building the church literally on him as Jesus declared.

One of the smaller churches in Rome named after Peter is S. Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) which is actually not far from the Angelicum. The namesake of the church, and what it is to be most reputed for, is the reliquary holding the chains that once bound Peter and were broken by the angel. Like most major reliquaries, especially those related directly to Paul or the Apostles, it is found immediately in front of the apse and is set in a lower level. In front of the chains are several candle holders where pilgrims can light candles and pray in the presence of something so close to a saint, even if it was the tools of his imprisonment.

However, when we went to this church to see the chains, the crowd of people waiting outside of the church to open after the noon break headed straight to a tomb to the right of Peter's chains. There stands a huge funerary monument intended for Pope Julius II which was to be placed in St. Peter's Basilica, originally intended to be even more enormous than it is. Carved by none other than Michelangelo, its out-of-the-way location and almost unencumbered viewing make it a favorite of tourists. They also like to see Moses' horns, based on St. Jerome's mistranslation of Exodus 34.

It's interesting for me to have both amazing sites in the same church, both reminding us of the oppression and imprisonment of God's people through the ages. Of course, even today there are people suffering for their faith, and many of them aren't benefiting from miraculous rescues. It's also interesting that most people flocked to the beautiful artistic representation rather than the cold, impersonal chains. While it's hard to deny the pull of Michelangelo, it's much easier to walk away from a coarse reminder of the sacrifices many people go through for their faith, whether on a small or grand scale. It makes me appreciate Peter more, for all his mistakes and confusion, in the end he wanted nothing more than to serve God with everything he had.

Merciful God, you have never promised us an easy or simply life by following you. We remember Peter, who stumbled and fell many times, but nonetheless was granted the strength and grace to continue on in your ministry. Grant that grace also to those persecuted for following you, those suffering under their work for the kingdom, or those doubting in anyway. Send your Holy Spirit to strengthen us always, in your Son's name, Amen.

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