La Scala Sancta

So Jesus came out, wearing the crown of thorns and the purple robe. Pilate said to them, "Here is the man!" When the chief priests and the police saw him, they shouted, "Crucify him! Crucify him!" Pilate said to them, "Take him yourselves and crucify him; I find no case against him." - John 19: 5-6

According to church tradition, the Scala Sancta (Holy Stairs) are the steps that led up to the praetorium of Pilate in Jerusalem, which Christ stood on and was condemned during his passion. They reached Rome around 326 when St. Helena, mother of Constantine, had them brought back from the Holy Land. The stairs were moved a few times, but reached their current location outside S. Giovanni in Laterno near the end of the 16th century.

Currently, the marble steps are covered with walnut wood to protect the steps - and, perhaps, be a bit more forgiving on pilgrims who climb the 28 steps on their knees. The stairs lead up to the Sancta Sanctorum (Holy of Holies), an old papal chapel which is the only remaining part of the former Lateran Palace. It contains several relics and a icon of Jesus that is said to have been made 'not by human hands'.

For centuries, pilgrims have climbed these stairs on their knees. In the Catholic church, plenary indulgence can be granted for climbing the stairs, especially in Lent and on Fridays. Not realizing this when we climbed the stairs ourselves, we met a huge crowd of people. Several nuns, but a surprising number of lay people. Some of them were extremely devout, pausing for lengthy prayers, bending to kiss certain steps, or using prayer books and other devotional aids to make the most of their experience.

From a Lutheran perspective, these stairs gained infamy when Martin Luther climbed them 500 years ago, praying for the souls of his grandparents. When he reached the top, he famously wondered if it all meant nothing. His trip to Rome was clouded by doubts - about the church, about his faith, about indulgences, and more. For him, the religious experience of the Scala Sancta was not buying a soul out of purgatory - something that could not be done - but about reawakening his own Biblical faith.

As a modern Lutheran pilgrim, I did not hope for indulgences or favors. I only wanted to join brothers and sisters in faith in an important experience. For me, it was enough to be reminded of Christ's passion, to spend time on my knees, and to be in a holy place consecrated by prayers and devotion, no matter the reason or intent.

Gracious God, we know that we are saved by grace through faith in your Son, Jesus Christ. Keep us ever aware of his sacrifice, and join us with the faithful in prayer and devotion to you always. We pray these things in your name, Amen.