Thursday, November 1, 2007

The Catacombs of San Callistus

Listen, I will tell you a mystery! We will not all die, but we will all be changed, in a moment, in the twinkling of an eye, at the last trumpet. For the trumpet will sound, and the dead will be raised imperishable, and we will be changed. For this perishable body must put on imperishability, and this mortal body must put on immortality. When this perishable body puts on imperishability, and this mortal body puts on immortality, then the saying that is written will be fulfilled: "Death has been swallowed up in victory. Where, O death, is your victory? Where, O death, is your sting?" - 1 Corinthians 15:51-55

One of the great legends of Rome is its collection of catacombs just outside the old city walls. In New Testament times, the catacombs were a necessity, as burial of any kind was forbidden within city limits. Pagans and Jews alike had to transport their dead outside the city for burial, and since land was an expensive commodity then as now, they tunneled in layers below the surface to make as much room as possible. The land surrounding Rome is a volcanic soil which, once dug out and exposed to air, forms a hard, cement-like layer; this makes digging tunnels, niches, and tombs comparatively easy. After the fall of Rome, these layers of tombs fell into disuse and neglect until 1849 when an amateur Italian archaeologist named Giovanni Battista di Rossi accidentally discovered the entry to one of the biggest ones, San Callistus.

This particular catacomb started and remained a Christian burial place, as the land was donated by a wealth Christian convert to provide Christians (who were not often very affluent) a respectable burial. Nine popes were buried here, giving in the moniker of the Little Vatican, and St. Cecelia, patron saint of music, was originally buried here until she was moved to a different church in Rome. Numerous other bishops, martyrs, and early Christians were also buried here. Do not, however, believe the myth that the catacombs only existed for secret burials and worship. Any Roman was buried in a catacomb - this one was simply particularly Christian. Also, only occasional services were held in the catacombs, particularly on saint days and festivals. This was done without regard to persecutions or lack thereof.

The real mystery of the catacombs, if you can call it that, is the simple representation of early Christian faith. It has its own symbols, showing how early Christians truly believed in a full resurrection of the body. It represents a commitment to caring for the neighbor by providing burial for even non-Christians who couldn't otherwise afford a proper burial. While not as dramatic as some might believe, it also demonstrates the early martyrs in the faith who inspired other believers to be firm.

Inside the catacomb, you cannot but feel a connection to this faith. (Photos are not allowed; great pictures and explanations are available at this site.) The art is simple but evocative. Even the rows upon rows of burial places serve to remind you of an early faith which somehow spoke to the hearts of more and more people, in spite of its lack of popularity or sometimes outright persecution. Most importantly, it reminds you that death is not the end. These bodies might not be living, but as Christians we know that someday they will rise again and be united with Christ. Whether you believe that resurrection will be bodily or spiritual, the fact remains that death doesn't have the last word. We are promised a resurrection like Christ's, and we wait expectantly for that day.

Our powerful God, God of life and mercy, you sent us your Son so that through him we would not truly perish, but have eternal life. Grant that we might one day be together with him in glory, alongside all the saints, worshiping with joy. While we might mourn in death, give us comfort knowing that it is not final, thanks to the work of your Son, Jesus Christ, our Lord. Amen.

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