Il Colosseo

I want to know Christ and the power of his resurrection and the sharing of his sufferings by becoming like him in his death, if somehow I may attain the resurrection from the dead. Not that I have already obtained this or have already reached the goal; but I press on to make it my own, because Christ Jesus has made me his own. - Philippians 3:10-12

The Colosseum stands among Rome's most iconic images. On a short list of "things to see" in Rome, you'll find the Colosseum without a doubt. However, the question is often why people want to see the Colosseum. For some, it's a matter of historical wonder. For others, it's another great photo op. However, for many Christians who come to Rome on pilgrimage, the Colosseum represents the persecution of Christians off and on throughout the first centuries of the faith at the hands of the Roman empire.

It is indeed possible that Christians were killed at the Colosseum. Since it was built between 70 and 80 AD it would have been in high usage in the following centuries, during which there were periods of intense Christian persecution. Also, while the Colosseum did host such events as drama, gladiator shows, animal hunts (with real exotic animals), and even possibly mock naval battles, there were also executions. After all, over 50,000 people could attend events at the Colosseum, and they were often political in nature; it would be an excellent forum to remind people of the rule of the state.

However, to believe that the Colosseum was not only where all Roman Christians were martyred but used primarily for this purpose is inaccurate. In fact, the association with martyrdoms and the Colosseum can be traced only as far back as the 16th century; recovered lists of important pilgrimage sites in Rome before that bear no mention of the Colosseum. Furthermore, through even the Medieval Ages, the Colosseum found various uses as a market, stable, and fortress - hardly a carefully preserved holy site. Saint Ignatius of Antioch, a prominent bishop who was martyred during a period of persecution, is often believed to have been killed in the Colosseum; however, his well-documented imprisonment and death only states that he died in "the arena", of which there were many in Rome.

Nonetheless, the church considers the Colosseum an important religious place. Sure, it's always full of secular school groups and wide-eyed tourists, surrounded by a very impious hoard of trinket sellers and panini stands, and subject to a sizable entry fee. It's still the place that the Via Crucis centers on Good Friday services, and still has several crosses positioned both inside and out. Even with the secular historical dimensions, and even without its intense connections to the early Christian martyrs, it is an important place to consider.

I can look at the Colosseum and be amazed by 2,000 years of history staring back at me. The technology at the time used to create it, combined with the incredible manpower it required, astounds me. Even the mass of humanity gathered around the place makes me shake my head. However, when I think about it, I realize that even more incredible to me is the faith of a martyr. I would like to believe that if it was required of me, I would assert my faith to the point of death. But in the face of such imminent physical pain, I cannot honestly say. The memory of the martyrs challenges me and reminds me that I do not come to this faith alone - it is only by the grace of God.

God of mercy, we give thanks for the Spirit's constant work in us, building our faith through the grace selflessly given by your Son's death and resurrection. Forgive us, Lord, when we stumble in our faith and deny you in thought, word, and deed. Remind us of those who have praised your name even to their death; save us from such a trial, and give us courage should we face it anyway. In you we have strength. Amen.

St. Clare of Assisi

For it is better to suffer for doing good, if suffering should be God's will, than to suffer for doing evil. For Christ also suffered for sins once for all, the righteous for the unrighteous, in order to bring you to God. He was put to death in the flesh, but made alive in the spirit, in which also he went and made a proclamation to the spirits in prison, who in former times did not obey, when God waited patiently in the days of Noah, during the building of the ark, in which a few, that is, eight persons, were saved through water. And baptism, which this prefigured, now saves you - not as a removal of dirt from the body, but as an appeal to God for a good conscience, through the resurrection of Jesus Christ - 1 Peter 3:17-21

Ever since I first met her, I have been inspired by Clare. Not only was she a woman with great faith, but she had very sincere dedication to her neighbor, especially those most in need. She was intelligent and persistent in a time when women were rarely heard. Perhaps most amazing is her complete unfailing confidence in spite of all kinds of pain, as long as she knew she was living and serving in God's name.

Much of Clare's life is a shadow to Francis's, something even she allowed. She referred to herself as the Little Flower of Francis, indicating that she had grown up under his instruction. This is indeed true; the friendship between Francis and Clare was instrumental not only in Clare's personal development, but in her influence on a local and even church-wide scale. It is likely that without Francis's notoriety and support, Clare could not have had the influence she did. This continues even today in strange ways. For instance, when an earthquake hit Assisi 10 years ago, Francis's basilica was almost immediately re-built; Clare's, on the other hand, was still in pieces when I first saw it in 2001.

I had guarded expectations for my return to visit Clare this year. I was afraid her little basilica would be just as battered as before, and her tomb (holding her visible remains, which are no longer uncorrupted but still contain her perfectly-preserved skeleton) would be inaccessible. Imagine my surprise when this was not the case! While the frescoes that once decorated the church can never be recovered, those that could be displayed are fully visible. A side chapel allows pilgrims to pray. And perhaps most amazing is the lower crypt where Clare's body can actually be seen at very close distance.

In so many ways, Clare's life has influenced mine. I came to know about her in a very important time in my life, as I discerned my call to ministry. Her passion to service, ability to look past obstacles, and her choice of a humble life in spite of the amazing resources at her disposal, encouraged me to do the same as I best could. Her ability to endure suffering no matter what happened reminded me that I also had been granted the same confidence in Christ. Most amazingly, her feminine nature shown through in what was very much a man's world to no detriment of her ministry; I can hope the same for myself.

It was truly a delight to return to Clare's house. During the weekend in Assisi, I found myself wanting to sneak back into the basilica - and not just because it was a warm, quiet place on such a freezing, busy weekend. Being in her church reminded me of the service she offered and the testimony of her life. I am honored to have her as a sister in Christ, a fellow worker in the kingdom, and another exemplary member of the Communion of Saints.

Gracious God, in baptism you bring us together into one family. Thank you for the unity you offer us, and the opportunity to work side-by-side with such dedicated members of your kingdom like Clare. May her humility and tenacity inspire us to continually serve you through our neighbor no matter what happens. Because of your Son, we can endure all things. We pray these things in his name, Amen.

St. Francis of Assisi

We want you to know, brothers and sisters, about the grace of God that has been granted to the churches of Macedonia; for during a severe ordeal of affliction, their abundant joy and their extreme poverty have overflowed in a wealth of generosity on their part. For, as I can testify, they voluntarily gave according to their means, and even beyond their means, begging us earnestly for the privilege of sharing in this ministry to the saints - and this, not merely as we expected; they gave themselves first to the Lord and, by the will of God, to us - 2 Corinthians 8:1-5

If you ask almost anyone who their favorite saint is, there's a good chance they'll name St. Francis. After all, he is the saint associated with animals (it's his feast day that even non-Catholic churches use to hold a ceremony for the blessing of animals) and is said to have even preached to the birds. Indeed, his life demonstrates a yearning for simplicity and a love of the natural order that truly draws people to him. It certainly doesn't hurt that he was a gifted writer and clearly a very religious, deeply spiritual man.

Strangely enough, there is another side to this beloved saint. He had a problematic fixation with the Crusades, wanting desperately to be martyred in battle with the heathens. In fact, he left Assisi several times to try to join an army, but was usually thwarted by disease. His confrontation with a Sultan in Egypt carries strong overtones of presumed Christian supremacy, not to mention Francis's thinly-veiled contempt. Some historians make a big deal of this, as there are always people who like to rip through inspiring tales and show the seedy underbelly. While I don't doubt that Francis had his darker side - he was human, after all, and as tormented as any deeply devout person of God can be - I don't know that this negates his character.

After all, he dedicated his life whole-heartedly to poverty in spite of his family's great wealth. In fact, the Franciscan dedication to poverty was revolutionary for an order at the time, and their service to the poor was above and beyond what others had committed to. He was able to refocus from a life of internal contemplation to true outward dedication to neighbor. He even showed great respect for women, something very unlikely for men of his time. In other words, he might not have been perfect, but that does not make him less worthy of admiration.

When I went to Assisi, I knew I would come face-to-face with Francis again. The last time I was in Assisi, I didn't know about the so-called "dark side" of this saint. I worried a little if this second visit would be colored by it. The truth is I was still just as inspired by his example and memory as I had been before. Frankly, I'm glad I know this other side of Francis, as it reminds me that in the end, he was human just like me. Perhaps, like Francis, I can serve my neighbor and dedicate my life to service and love for creation, even in spite of my failings.

Our Great God, there are great people in this world who have truly shown us what it is like to be your servant. Thank your for the testimony of saints like Francis, whose compassion for the other - whether human or creature - inspire us to greater love for all your creation. Remind us that no matter our sins and failings, we can turn to you and be constantly made new. We may be poor in spirit, but in your Son, we are rich in grace. Grant us these things in his name, Amen.

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After a few months in exile, this blog is finally fully updated to here and now. If you haven't recently, please scroll down through the most recent posts, and click "older posts" at the bottom right of the page to see if you've missed any. Since I have less than two months left, I will stay more on top of things from now on. Thanks for reading, feel free to leave comments, and be well!

Castel Sant'Angelo

The name of the LORD is a strong tower; the righteous run into it and are safe. - Proverbs 18:10

If you've read any Dan Brown books, the mythology and lore of Roman art and architecture probably have a much different significance for you than what it really holds. While these ancient sites likely have more than their fair share of secrets and scandals, it's not likely quite the way he depicts it. Perhaps one of the best examples of this is Castel Sant'Angelo. In his book "Angels And Demons", he makes this place out to be the illicit lair of the Illuminati, complete with super-secret passageway to the Vatican. In reality, it's served many purposes throughout history - one of them being safe storage for the Pope, for which the "secret" passageway does indeed exist, albeit very visibly.

The building began its life as a tomb for the Roman emperor Hadrian in 138, and other emperors were also buried there. However, following the fall of Rome it was vandalized and fell into disrepair, as so many things did. It eventually became a military fortress, and by the 14th century it became a sort of Papal castle. It was generally intended to be used to house the Pope in times of crisis - something Clement VII was thankful for in 1527. It was also a prison, as immortalized in Puccini's Tosca, and is now a rather benign museum.

Nonetheless, I can hardly look at an old castle without thinking of the Bible's multiple references to castles and fortresses. Maybe these analogies don't work as well in our day, since we don't really have them around any more. But when I look at Castel Sant'Angelo, I know exactly what Proverbs intends us to hear: God is vast, secure, spacious, and most importantly, unbelievably strong. Just as the Pope would run to this castle in time of greatest need, so we run to our God when things seem most desperate. No matter what the crisis, God will protect. God will shield. When we are granted the faith to claim God as our God, we are granted everything that comes with it, including everlasting security.

One of my seminary professors noted that most people have trouble with this concept seeing as how much goes wrong in life: sickness, injury, war, famine, death. He noted that given all these horrors, it's remarkable that we are able to survive at all. He attributes this to God's eternal protection and guidance. It's the only thing that keeps things going. In a world of danger and disease, our God is a strong tower that gives us refuge.

Lord God, in you we are promised refuge. Your guidance and mercy give hope even when things seem darkest. Grant us the faith to trust you in all things, keeping the faith always. Please shield us from the terrors of life, and give us healing when they attack us. In all things, we praise you and your strength, no matter what. All these things we know and believe in your Son's gracious name, Amen.

The Catacombs of San Callistus

Listen, I will tell you a mystery! We will not all die, but we will all be changed, in a moment, in the twinkling of an eye, at the last trumpet. For the trumpet will sound, and the dead will be raised imperishable, and we will be changed. For this perishable body must put on imperishability, and this mortal body must put on immortality. When this perishable body puts on imperishability, and this mortal body puts on immortality, then the saying that is written will be fulfilled: "Death has been swallowed up in victory. Where, O death, is your victory? Where, O death, is your sting?" - 1 Corinthians 15:51-55

One of the great legends of Rome is its collection of catacombs just outside the old city walls. In New Testament times, the catacombs were a necessity, as burial of any kind was forbidden within city limits. Pagans and Jews alike had to transport their dead outside the city for burial, and since land was an expensive commodity then as now, they tunneled in layers below the surface to make as much room as possible. The land surrounding Rome is a volcanic soil which, once dug out and exposed to air, forms a hard, cement-like layer; this makes digging tunnels, niches, and tombs comparatively easy. After the fall of Rome, these layers of tombs fell into disuse and neglect until 1849 when an amateur Italian archaeologist named Giovanni Battista di Rossi accidentally discovered the entry to one of the biggest ones, San Callistus.

This particular catacomb started and remained a Christian burial place, as the land was donated by a wealth Christian convert to provide Christians (who were not often very affluent) a respectable burial. Nine popes were buried here, giving in the moniker of the Little Vatican, and St. Cecelia, patron saint of music, was originally buried here until she was moved to a different church in Rome. Numerous other bishops, martyrs, and early Christians were also buried here. Do not, however, believe the myth that the catacombs only existed for secret burials and worship. Any Roman was buried in a catacomb - this one was simply particularly Christian. Also, only occasional services were held in the catacombs, particularly on saint days and festivals. This was done without regard to persecutions or lack thereof.

The real mystery of the catacombs, if you can call it that, is the simple representation of early Christian faith. It has its own symbols, showing how early Christians truly believed in a full resurrection of the body. It represents a commitment to caring for the neighbor by providing burial for even non-Christians who couldn't otherwise afford a proper burial. While not as dramatic as some might believe, it also demonstrates the early martyrs in the faith who inspired other believers to be firm.

Inside the catacomb, you cannot but feel a connection to this faith. (Photos are not allowed; great pictures and explanations are available at this site.) The art is simple but evocative. Even the rows upon rows of burial places serve to remind you of an early faith which somehow spoke to the hearts of more and more people, in spite of its lack of popularity or sometimes outright persecution. Most importantly, it reminds you that death is not the end. These bodies might not be living, but as Christians we know that someday they will rise again and be united with Christ. Whether you believe that resurrection will be bodily or spiritual, the fact remains that death doesn't have the last word. We are promised a resurrection like Christ's, and we wait expectantly for that day.

Our powerful God, God of life and mercy, you sent us your Son so that through him we would not truly perish, but have eternal life. Grant that we might one day be together with him in glory, alongside all the saints, worshiping with joy. While we might mourn in death, give us comfort knowing that it is not final, thanks to the work of your Son, Jesus Christ, our Lord. Amen.

Water Fountains

Then the angel showed me the river of the water of life, bright as crystal, flowing from the throne of God and of the Lamb through the middle of the street of the city. On either side of the river is the tree of life with its twelve kinds of fruit, producing its fruit each month; and the leaves of the tree are for the healing of the nations. - Revelation 22:1-2

Being a thirsty tourist gets pretty easy in Rome. Throughout the city, you find tons of fountains ready and waiting for your empty water bottle. In fact, you can safely assume that any running water throughout the city can be safely consumed unless it is in the vast minority marked acqua non potabile (water not drinkable). You could technically climb into any one of the numerous ornamental fountains, but the bathing pigeons - not to mention your wet shoes and pants - would probably serve as sufficient deterrent.

Instead, you can walk up to any of the constantly-flowing water spigots found in numerous nooks, crannies, piazzas, and street corners in Rome. Being so close to mountain streams and pure springs, these fountains have no shortage of fresh, cool water. People walk up to them to wash their hands, splash some water on their face, fill a bottle, or even plug the end to shoot some water up through the tiny hole on the top, a la American water fountain. Everyone gathers to these fountains, especially on hot days, and everyone is grateful for them.

It brings to my mind the utopia in Revelation, where water flows through the city and healing trees grow on its banks. Rome is hardly the pristine New Jerusalem, and its fountains aren't exactly the water of life, but its the reminder and not the reality that counts. The ubiquity of water in this city, and the way it restores everyone from affluent tourists to thirsty beggars, constantly brings to mind the frequent Biblical references to water. Water brings death and destruction in abundance, brings suffering and pain in its absence, and gives life and renewal in simple presence. It's no wonder the river of life is such a powerful, peaceful image - water in this form gives life to life, and reminds us of our dependence on God's gifts.

I drink out of these Roman fountains often, having long since put aside my fears of germs. (You have to get over that pretty quickly in Rome, anyway.) Every time I do, I remind myself of God's graciousness. God provides us love and grace as overflowing as a fountain, and I can fill up at it any time. It washes away my dirtiness, quenches my thirst, and unites me with my neighbor in my need. Just as I was washed in water at baptism, I am renewed by it every time I take a sip. These fountains may not be the river of life, but they'll keep me going until I can sit on its banks.

God of abundance, you bless us with everything we need in this world and in the next. In water you claim us, clean us, and constantly renew us. Remind us of your call in our baptism, and keep us ever refreshed in its waters. Bring us together finally in the New Jerusalem, where we can gather at the shores of the river of life and be in your presence always. We pray this in your Son's name, Amen.

Greenwich Prime Meridian

[The LORD said,] "Where were you when I laid the foundation of the earth? Tell me, if you have understanding. Who determined its measurements - surely you know! Or who stretched the line upon it? On what were its bases sunk, or who laid its cornerstone when the morning stars sang together and all the heavenly beings shouted for joy? - Job 38:4-7

Not being much of a science person, I can't quite explain the difference between the latitudes and longitudes of the Earth. I know that the poles and the Equator have strange and unique characteristics that set them definitively on the planet. Conversely, I know that the same is not said for the lines of longitude. In fact, at the Prime Meridian, you will experience nothing more unusual than many different languages being spoken and a large red line across the pavement. This is because the Prime Meridian set in Greenwich, England was completely set by humans as an aid for navigation and telling time.

Today, this line generally sets the International Date Line and separates the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. The scientists at the Greenwich Observatory took the liberty of setting it, and by 1884 it was nearly globally accepted as the standard for navigation. The reason it goes through England is simply because in 1851, when it was established, English ships still held great influence on the seas and having a central navigational point served them well in their business.

Ironically, this well-marked line does not serve as the zero point in satellite navigation systems; the real center point is just over 300 feet to the east. Since I'm not a science person, I can't explain to you exactly how it was determined that this other line more clearly represented an actual center point on the globe based on star observations, gravity, and continental drift. Apparently, the actual zero point can be found by locating a possibly sarcastically-located garbage can on the Royal Observatory's grounds.

I may not speak science, but I can tell you what this realization makes me think about. When God admonishes Job at the end of his self-titled story, God does some serious head-shaking about Job's presumption that he is indeed the center of the universe and things really, honestly do revolve around him and his piety. God makes things pretty clear: humanity is not the be-all, end-all in creation. Any time humanity tries to do this, odds are things get seriously lopsided. God's reminder to Job is a reminder to us all: God made this world, and even if we think we could have done it better, we're just part of the grand scheme.

It's hard to be put in your place in a grand, cosmic scheme. We want to make it all about us and the way it should work to make things easier - but it's a lie. That's not the way the world works. Even the Prime Meridian, that great feat of human ingenuity, is sort of mostly wrong. No matter how much we don't like it, God sets those boundaries. At the end of the day, it's a job I'll leave willingly to God. After all, I'm not much of a science person.

God of all things, you have made all things and made them so good! We cannot understand everything, and sometimes we challenge you for the role of creator. Remind us gently that you are in charge, and help us to trust you in all things. Even as we try to understand the mysteries of creation, help us to see you as the source active in all of it. Amen.

The Book of Kells

Through [Christ] you have come to trust in God, who raised him from the dead and gave him glory, so that your faith and hope are set on God. Now that you have purified your souls by your obedience to the truth so that you have genuine mutual love, love one another deeply from the heart. You have been born anew, not of perishable but of imperishable seed, through the living and enduring word of God. - 1 Peter 1:21-23

When we took a city break in Dublin, we weren't entirely sure of what we planned on seeing. At the top of almost every list is a visit to the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript from around 800 AD that is housed at Trinity College in Dublin. Being a fan of old books and interested in seeing something so reputedly gorgeous, I was sold. Granted, you can't exactly see the entire book. The four transcribed gospels and their corresponding illustrations are housed in two very fragile volumes, and on display at any given time are only one page out of each volume. Nonetheless, simply being to observe such a book is quite a gift.

Before seeing the book, you spend time in an exhibit that teaches you about the process and artistry of creating illuminated manuscripts at the time. Considering how much work went into putting the book together - everything from stretching the vellum to copying the text - it's almost amazing there were any books around at all. But the care with which these gospels were obviously reproduced and the fact that they have survived to this day are just an example and reminder of how dearly valued the Word of God is for believers.

Today, you can find a Bible in any hotel room, but it's as if its ubiquity prevents us from taking it seriously. Even as a seminarian, I cannot state with certainty if I have entirely read every book of the Bible. How would we consider the written word of scripture differently if books were so rare as to be worth more than a lifetime's earnings? How much more seriously would we take the opportunity to read the Bible? As I looked at the Book of Kells, I realized just how much we can take the written word for granted and just how vital it is for us to remain tied to the Word.

The Word of God is still living and active today. The words of the Bible are still vital for us now; furthermore, God's Word is moving in the preached word and sacrament every day. This Word forms us new every day. This Word brings us closer to God and helps us serve our neighbor more completely. This is not something to take for granted. It is something to treasure deeply and stay in close relationship with. May we each realize how we need to be constantly renewed by God's Word.

Lord of Life, your Word moves through us even today. We are constantly thankful for your presence with us in the sacraments and the preached word. Open our hearts and minds to your scriptures, so that we might come closer to understanding you and your will. Give us the boldness to approach you in study and prayer, as we come with humility to ask the Spirit's guidance. In all things, keep us dedicated to your will and way. We pray this in your Son's name, Amen.

The Pools At Bath

Now in Jerusalem by the Sheep Gate there is a pool, called in Hebrew Beth-zatha, which has five porticoes. In these lay many invalids-- blind, lame, and paralyzed. One man was there who had been ill for thirty-eight years. When Jesus saw him lying there and knew that he had been there a long time, he said to him, "Do you want to be made well?" The sick man answered him, "Sir, I have no one to put me into the pool when the water is stirred up; and while I am making my way, someone else steps down ahead of me." Jesus said to him, "Stand up, take your mat and walk." At once the man was made well, and he took up his mat and began to walk. - John 5:2-9a

While England and Italy might seem worlds apart, they are linked in more than a few ways. One of the more interesting pieces is the way they both represent the spread of the ancient Roman Empire, that world power that saw the birth and death of Christ. Roman ruins are not just the realm of Rome, but of much of the European continent. So it should not be any surprise that even England boasts a large amount of remarkable Roman sites. One of these is the spring of Aquae Sulis and the city of Bath.

The spring that bubbles out of the ground here has been likely venerated for over 10,000 years. Keeping a constant temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit and flowing at the rate of a quarter million gallons a day, it's a natural event not likely to go unnoticed. The original inhabitants dedicated the site to Sulis, a goddess of water, and when the Romans arrived they co opted the site for Minerva. While the site had always been revered as a place of healing, it was also believed that the place was so holy that people could use it to communicate with the divine; prayers, petitions, and offerings were often thrown into the hot water. Even after the temple fell to ruin, Bath became the place to see and be seen by those treating the spring as a spa to soak in and drink up.

It's the first time I've ever seen something like it, and just being there gave me a better understanding of this story from John. At this particular site in Bath, there were numerous side pools, steam rooms, and cooling baths to be used in combination for the best cleaning and healing effect. However, this was typically reserved for the most wealthy or well-connected. Perhaps others found a way to the waters, but it is not likely. How were these most desperate people to find healing?

One of the most overwhelming aspects of Christ's nature is his ability to heal. Many people tend to focus on the otherworldly aspects of his teachings, making it easy to forget what he promises for us here and now. While he certainly points us to God and righteousness, he also grants healing and wholeness in unexpected ways at unexpected times. When we are most hopeless and broken, Jesus invites us to take up our mat and walk. This is not because we can afford it or even because we deserve it, but simply because God is that good.

Our heavenly Father, in this life our bodies are subjected to great physical pain and sickness. As your Son healed the lame man by the healing pools, so come to us in our need and grant us wholeness. Work through physicians of all kinds to bring this relief, and give patience to those still awaiting your healing. Remind us always that we are in need of the restoration only you can bring through your Son Jesus, Amen.