Sunday, March 25, 2007

Trash People

On the contrary, the members of the body that seem to be weaker are indispensable, and those members of the body that we think less honorable we clothe with greater honor, and our less respectable members are treated with greater respect; whereas our more respectable members do not need this. But God has so arranged the body, giving the greater honor to the inferior member, that there may be no dissension within the body, but the members may have the same care for one another. If one member suffers, all suffer together with it; if one member is honored, all rejoice together with it. - 1 Corinthians 12:22-26

On our way to church today, we passed through Piazza del Popolo, one of the major squares here in Rome. Usually it is filled with musicians, families, tourists, joggers, and all sorts of people selling things. Today it was a very, very different sight. Row after row of military-style 'people' comprised of pop cans, car parts and computer components stared facelessly at us. It seemed we weren't the only people unsettled by the non-human gaze of these 1,000 bodies as the whole square was just a bit quieter than usual.

We hustled off to church, which was more disorganized than usual today. With the time change (two weeks later for us here in Europe) most people arrived late; most importantly, the baptismal party had not arrived at all. They showed up 45 minutes into the service, clearly having not set their clocks ahead last night. Nonetheless, the Assistant Curate handled everything with extreme grace and poise - and was even her first baptism.

Most interesting was her sermon. The lectionary texts for the day pointed us towards the story of Jesus' anointing, to Judas' protest. I thought immediately of the trash people standing in the Piazza when the reader recounted Judas' words about the poor being always with us. While I didn't know if the people were a comment on ecology or the way we treat humans, my ears were nonetheless perked. Our preacher bypassed the references to anointing (especially on a Sunday with a baptism) and headed straight to the way we treat some like trash. This was also due to today marking the 200th anniversary of the banning of the slave trade in England. Her words were profound. In a world where we treat people like trash, Jesus calls us to a love and service that surpasses what the world expects. When we are baptized into this community, we make a radical statement about the importance of all God's creation.

When we returned to the Piazza after church, we read the kiosk of the artist's intentions for the exhibit. While he seemed indeed to be calling our consumerist nature to account, I believe this doesn't simply apply to goods and resources. When we treat people like resources to be exploited, as if they somehow have less to offer, we deny their rightful place as children of God.

Our gracious Father, our selfishness and greed lead us into lives of manipulation, destruction and hatred. Bring light to our darkness, reveal our sin, and lead us into a life of harmony and grace in this world and in the world to come. May those especially who are treated like trash, those who are considered less worthy, know that they have a place in the Body of Christ, where they will be always loved and respected in your Son's name, Amen.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Acqua Alta - Venezia

Then God said to Noah and to his sons with him, "As for me, I am establishing my covenant with you and your descendants after you, and with every living creature that is with you, the birds, the domestic animals, and every animal of the earth with you, as many as came out of the ark. I establish my covenant with you, that never again shall all flesh be cut off by the waters of a flood, and never again shall there be a flood to destroy the earth." - Genesis 9:8-11

One of the distinguishing marks of Venice is its canals. The city itself is built in a lagoon, and the land under the historical city is actually a series of 122 small islands connected by a series of bridges. The Grand Canal snakes through the center of the city, providing the central means of transport through Venice. On any of these canals, whether small or wide, you can see a series of gondolas, vaporettos (water taxis), or personal boats. Actual land-based roads are tiny, circuitous, and frequently dead-end.

Apparently, Venice was first built in this precarious place as more and more people fled mainland barbarian invasions. Eventually, the city came to embrace its aquatic status and became a major player on the world stage by virtue of its incredible maritime endeavors, staging huge battles and becoming a powerful shipping port. To this day, Venetians seem more comfortable on water than on land.

Unfortunately, humans and cities were not exactly built for the water. In the approximately 1,000 years of Venice, the city has slowly and resolutely sunk into the sea. Also, being at the mouth of a river and on unsteady land, it is very vulnerable to high tide. This rising water, particularly the fast and exceptionally high type, is referred to as the acqua alta which means simply 'high water'. At these times, sirens sound and low-lying areas (especially those around San Marco) are generally vacated.

This frequent flooding hasn't seemed to deter the Venetians, but it does demonstrate the irrefutable power of the sea. The ancient Hebrews saw the ocean as the site of true primordial chaos, and even co-oped the words for sea from other cultures to refer to beasts and demons. Water is uncontrollable by humans, no matter how many boats and bridges they build, and no matter how we try to overcome it we find ourselves drawn to and threatened by it.

Perhaps because of the frequent flooding of my own hometown, I have never been completely comfortable with water. Especially at this time of the year, when spring thaw forces even the tiniest stream into a raging, dangerous river, I find myself frustrated and threatened by the inexorable force of rising water. I can't imagine the faith of Noah, closing himself into his likely very rickety boat, praying that God would keep those promises made. Thank goodness for Noah - and Venice, and also my own home - God does indeed keep promises.

God of all creation, you have promised never to destroy us. You have committed yourself to us and to all the things you have made. Remind us always of your faithfulness as we seek to be faithful to you, even in the face of rising water and impending danger. We pray these things in the name of your Son, Amen.

Friday, March 16, 2007

Basilica di San Marco - Venezia

The beginning of the good news of Jesus Christ, the Son of God. - Mark 1:1

Mark's gospel is generally considered to be the earliest one written. It has a notably terse, swift writing style, as if the author himself wanted to convey the brevity and impact of Christ's mission on earth in his very writing style. As for the man himself, very little is known; nonetheless, a great deal of tradition has been built up around him - in some ways, quite literally.

The evangelist's remains are said to currently reside in the Venetian basilica that bears his name, where they have been since 828. According to the tradition, rogue Venetian sailors stole Mark's body from Alexandria by smuggling it in a barrel of pork. His remains were temporarily lost during the remodel in the late 1oth century, but rediscovered in 1094.

Interestingly, this action had religious and political motivations. Supposedly, the religious intent was to fulfill the prophecy given to Mark, that an angel appeared to him when he was on an island in Venice and proclaimed to him, "Pax tibi Marce Evangelista meus," (Peace to you, Mark, my evangelist.) It then told him this would be his final resting place. Since he died in Alexandria, according to tradition, the sailors were only making God's will known. However, they were also freeing Venice from any political affiliation. Previously, Venice's patron saint was Theodore, a distinctly eastern saint. They didn't want to switch to the popular Peter or Paul, which would imply fealty to Rome.

When they chose Mark and ensconced him in their church, the basilica became the Doge's private palace. The Doge was the elected leader of Venice, with mostly ceremonial duties. The church was attached directly to his palace, and was gilded and remodeled into one of the most beautiful wonders of Italian architecture. In other words, Mark was reserved only for those in power.

This seems to be one of the darkest of human tendencies - the desire to claim a piece of God's universal story for themselves alone. For the Venetians, their exclusive claim on this evangelist was to grant them power over the sea, confidence in defeating both east and west, and a place in eternal history. To be fair, they're not the only once who stole a holy person's remains or called something holy a secular right - but it certainly is a strong example of it. I cannot help but wonder what Mark, this man of few words wishing only to proclaim God's good news in Jesus Christ would have to say about being fought over, covered in gold mosaics, and lifted up not as a testimony to God's work but as evidence of human jealousy and greed. I suspect he would have a few choice words to say about it.

God of all people, our selfishness leads us to claim you and your power only for ourselves. You know our darkest tendencies, our self-driven will, our resistance to your message of love and self-sacrifice, and yet you still sent your Son into our midst. Grant us the grace to open our hearts and minds to his mercy given to all people, sinners and saints, and give us the words to always glorify Your Name alone. Amen.

Thursday, March 1, 2007

San Pietro in Vincoli

While Peter was kept in prison, the church prayed fervently to God for him. The very night before Herod was going to bring him out, Peter, bound with two chains, was sleeping between two soldiers, while guards in front of the door were keeping watch over the prison. Suddenly an angel of the Lord appeared and a light shone in the cell. He tapped Peter on the side and woke him, saying, "Get up quickly." And the chains fell off his wrists. - Acts 12:5-7

Rome grants a lot of attention to Peter for many pretty obvious reasons, not the least of which being that he is credited as the first Pope and head of the early Christian church. Tradition holds that he was imprisoned, martyred and buried here in Rome - in fact, St. Peter's is on top of his tomb, building the church literally on him as Jesus declared.

One of the smaller churches in Rome named after Peter is S. Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) which is actually not far from the Angelicum. The namesake of the church, and what it is to be most reputed for, is the reliquary holding the chains that once bound Peter and were broken by the angel. Like most major reliquaries, especially those related directly to Paul or the Apostles, it is found immediately in front of the apse and is set in a lower level. In front of the chains are several candle holders where pilgrims can light candles and pray in the presence of something so close to a saint, even if it was the tools of his imprisonment.

However, when we went to this church to see the chains, the crowd of people waiting outside of the church to open after the noon break headed straight to a tomb to the right of Peter's chains. There stands a huge funerary monument intended for Pope Julius II which was to be placed in St. Peter's Basilica, originally intended to be even more enormous than it is. Carved by none other than Michelangelo, its out-of-the-way location and almost unencumbered viewing make it a favorite of tourists. They also like to see Moses' horns, based on St. Jerome's mistranslation of Exodus 34.

It's interesting for me to have both amazing sites in the same church, both reminding us of the oppression and imprisonment of God's people through the ages. Of course, even today there are people suffering for their faith, and many of them aren't benefiting from miraculous rescues. It's also interesting that most people flocked to the beautiful artistic representation rather than the cold, impersonal chains. While it's hard to deny the pull of Michelangelo, it's much easier to walk away from a coarse reminder of the sacrifices many people go through for their faith, whether on a small or grand scale. It makes me appreciate Peter more, for all his mistakes and confusion, in the end he wanted nothing more than to serve God with everything he had.

Merciful God, you have never promised us an easy or simply life by following you. We remember Peter, who stumbled and fell many times, but nonetheless was granted the strength and grace to continue on in your ministry. Grant that grace also to those persecuted for following you, those suffering under their work for the kingdom, or those doubting in anyway. Send your Holy Spirit to strengthen us always, in your Son's name, Amen.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

The Anglican Centre

But you, O Lord, are enthroned forever; your name endures to all generations. - Psalm 102:12

It's always good to be reminded of the wideness of the church beyond denominational walls. Sometimes it's being surrounded by the deep history of the Catholic church that inspires us with its abiding tradition and depth. Sometimes the continual renewal of new Christian worship styles strengthens our devotion. No matter what, it's good to know that we all worship the same God and follow the same Jesus - especially when home is far away.

The Anglican Centre finds itself on almost-donated ground in the glorious home of the Doria Pamphili famly, Italians with a long tradition of intermarrying with British royalty. As such, they grant a piece of their home (which is also a museum) to the Anglican church. The director of the facility is also the Anglican emissary to the Holy See, making it quite the well-connected place. However, the Centre dedicates itself to ecumenical dialogue, especially within the Anglican communion, and to hospitality within Rome.

Having attended All Saints Anglican, and being 'discovered' as a Lutheran pastor-to-be, I was warmly invited to their Tuesday afternoon Eucharist and lunch. I can no longer imagine any other way to spend my Tuesdays. Not only did I meet a host of other non-Romans, I came across students, clergy, tourists, families and visitors of all sorts, gathered together in an inviting, Christ-filled place. The food was pretty good, too.

Were it not for our shared faith, I would have had no opportunity to meet these people and worship with such an intimate, devoted, diverse group of people. Our native languages are different (Finnish, Spanish, German, and more!) and yet our faith brings us together. In the heart of the Christian faith, I have been welcomed by others who have nothing and yet everything in common with me. Thank God!

Our Divine Father, you draw us together as your children from all across the world. Inspire us with the one true faith, so that we can always work side-by-side in your kingdom. Grant us understanding, respect, and inspiration in the lives of faith our brothers and sisters life in Christ's name, Amen.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Basilica di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme

...and after twisting some thorns into a crown, they put it on [Jesus'] head. They put a reed in his right hand and knelt before him and mocked him, saying, "Hail, King of the Jews!" They spat on him, and took the reed and struck him on the head. - Matthew 27:29-30

On this Ash Wednesday, we start our journey to the cross. We spend 40 days preparing for that most horrific events, the death of Jesus; we also wait expectantly for Easter morning and his resurrection. Here in Rome, you can be face-to-face with very physical reminders of Christ's Passion and death.

Santa Croce in Gerusalemme (Holy Cross in Jerusalem) is so named because of the soil supposedly taken from the Holy Land by Saint Helen, Augustine's mother, and packed into the floor of the church. It is an ancient church, consecrated in 325, but was restored in the mid-1400s to its current state today. The church is most revered for its amazing collection of relics: two thorns from Jesus' crown of thorns, a nail from the crucifixion, splinters of the true cross, a large piece of wood from the good thief's cross, a bone from St. Thomas' infamous doubting finger, and a portion of the titulus - the 'condemnation' posted above Jesus' head. There is also a reliquary containing small pieces of the pillar at which Christ was whipped, Christ's tomb, and the manger.

Of course, there are all sorts of stories behind each piece. The thorns, for instance, are said to have come from a completely unknown plant. The titulus was long hidden behind a mosaic in the wall of the church, re-discovered only in the 18th century. It even clearly demonstrates being written from right to left, like a native Aramaic speaker; this seems to cast doubt on it being a forgery. The nail, of course, is one of more than three that exist, so the theory is that people throughout history took shavings from the original nails and recast them into many to be venerated.

No matter what one thinks about the reality of relics, their veneration is amazing. The sort of devotion and piety they can inspire are remarkable. Sometimes we need tangible reminders, whether dubious or factual, of the person of Jesus and his amazing work on our behalf. Especially in the difficult time of Lent, we need inspiration. It almost doesn't matter how it comes to us, as long as it guides us constantly back to the crucified Christ. On the journey to the cross, we will take whatever small comfort and encouragement we can get.

God of mercy, guide us on our Lenten journey. As we struggle towards your Son's cross, give us hope in the life to come on Easter morning. Grant us the inspiration of your Holy Spirit, that we might encounter your Word and believe in Christ's name. Amen.

Monday, February 19, 2007

Pompeii Scavi

Those who feasted on delicacies perish in the streets; those who were brought up in purple cling to ash heaps. - Lamentations 4:5

Not to be confused with the nearby modern city of Pompeii, Pompeii Scavi (which means excavation) can be found a commuter train ride away from Napoli, Italy. The ancient city was buried under tons of ash during an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in August of 79 AD. About 1,600 years later the city was slowly excavated, giving us an extremely well-preserved example of what ancient life was like. The city was literally stopped in its tracks by the eruption, leaving behind petrified examples of bread, fruit, and all sorts of other daily activities - including graffiti, prostitution and excess.

Frighteningly, the people themselves were also left behind. Most suffocated on poisonous gases and were buried under ash. Today, plaster casts have been made of those bodies and are on display throughout the site. Most frightening is the fact that on many faces, you can still make out expressions of pain, fear and desperation.

Some might try to make some kind of connection between Pompeii's infamous love for the erotic and passion for excess and its quick, untimely destruction. Living in the time recently following Christ, some might say that God was clearing out pagans and those wrapped in the pleasures of the flesh and showing that their time had passed. It's a tempting thought, since it gives some kind of meaning to this incredible disaster and grand loss of life.

Even today, we use these kinds of explanations. Earthquakes, hurricanes, and tsunamis that leave massive destruction and death in their wake are explained as punishment and purification by God. It's an easy explanation, but doesn't quite ring true. After all, Mt. Vesuvius killed innocent and extravagant all in one cloud, just as Hurricane Katrina took young, old, poor and wealthy all at once. After all, God promised Abraham that even Sodom would be spared if there were even 10 worthy people there. If God is just, God would keep those promises even today.

Perhaps instead, we can be reminded of two things by the story of Pompeii: no wealth or luxury is ever permanent, and disasters occur to faithful and faithless alike. We will always do well to put our ultimate trust in God no matter what - tragedy or success, wealth or poverty, life or death - and to not jump to conclusions at others' expense.

Just and gracious God, in the face of tragedies and uncertainties, help us to always put our trust in you. Keep us from the lure of easy answers and the draw of material goods, and remind us that the only answers are from you, the only wealth is your grace. Give healing and rest to those battered by tragedy, and give us always your peace and mercy. We pray this in your Son's name, Amen.

Pontifica Universita' San Tommaso D'Aquino in Urbe

You have dealt well with your servant, O LORD, according to your word. Teach me good judgment and knowledge, for I believe in your commandments. - Psalm 119:65-66

The name is pretty long, so it typically goes by its other name: the Angelicum. Those in the know or in a hurry call it simply the Ang. I call it my school here in Rome.

To go into detail of all the ways that this school is similar and yet different to my time at Luther Seminary seems almost beside the point. After all, this is a pontifical university in Rome - a denomination, intent, and world away from St. Paul At the same time, it still serves to train both ordained and lay people into the faith for service in the church.

The differences are, of course, immediately visible. My classes have about 40-60 people each, and I am without fail one of about 5 without a habit or collar on. Also, since this school draws people from across the world, my native English-speaking ability finds me in the minority. While the Ang holds classes in Italian and English, the more international nature of the English language finds the English-speaking classes quite a bit more culturally diverse. Also, I have only met one other Protestant who takes classes at the Ang, and he's in an entirely different program than I am.

However, I have been immediately and warmly received here. Since each class cannot but recognize their unfamiliarity, each class break has people introducing themselves, telling stories of home, and learning of each others' paths to the Ang. A great deal of learning takes place in the halls, as students find out more about the international character of the church. Sometimes you even learn about how small the world can be; a fellow graduate from my small-town high school takes three classes with me.

Perhaps most comforting is the strong community of faith. Even though we're from across the globe, separated from families, challenged in a rigorous environment, we are all drawn together for the sake of the church. Somehow, it makes me feel more at home to be surrounded by theology scholars talking Old Testament over coffee and stressing out over assisting in chapel. No matter how much I stand out, I still somehow fit right in.

Holy God, you send your servants out into many vocations. Be especially with those called to serve you in the ministry as they feed your flock in the name of Christ, our one Shepherd, who draws us all together from every race, country and language. Grant us unity in the Holy Spirit to truly serve you in harmony. Amen.

Sunday, February 11, 2007

All Saints Anglican Church

Today we worshiped with the community of All Saints, an Anglican church found near the Spanish Steps and Piazza di Popolo. This church is in communion with the Old Catholic church and also hosts an Italian mass every Sunday night. The church was small but strangely, as soon as we stepped in I felt like we were in England. I knew that it would be an interesting worship experience as we were removed by denomination and nationality from this congregation, and I was excited to see how it worked out.

The service was very formal, with about five people presiding and a small quartet leading all the music. Since members of the Italian congregation were present that morning, part of the prayers and lessons were in Italian. The preacher, however, was a woman without any hint of an accent, British or otherwise. Her sermon was brief, but extremely passionate. The congregation is about to reevaluate its direction and she encouraged the congregation to be involved and earnest, especially as they also prepare for Lent.

Much of the liturgy was very similar to traditional Lutheran LBW worship. I even recognized most of the tunes. It was strange to be so theoretically removed from a congregation and so technically similar. As if to drive the point home, after the service we greeted the preacher (who is actually an American) and she warmly invited me to preach while I'm here. Later, I will join her, the chaplain of All Saints, and other Protestant seminarians in weekly Eucharist and fellowship. Finally, a group of colleagues!

Interestingly, my husband and I both still felt like the American Catholic church had the best sense of acculturation; however, they have the advantage of at least having denominational contacts. All Saints has a strong sense of self in the context of the city and a very passionate staff, which certainly helps. I look forward to getting to know them all better in the weeks to come.

Friday, February 9, 2007

Santa Maria della Vittoria

Keep your conscience clear, so that, when you are maligned, those who abuse you for your good conduct in Christ may be put to shame. For it is better to suffer for doing good, if suffering should be God's will, than to suffer for doing evil. - 1 Peter 3:16a-17

If you've read Dan Brown's Angels and Demons, you are familiar with this church and its infamous statue of St. Teresa of Avila. In fact, most people come to this church only to see the statue, and since the publication of the book (and the ensuing popularity of Brown after The DaVinci Code) the church has seen a massive increase in tourism. Perhaps if people were willing to put the conspiracy theories aside, they would learn a lot more about an amazing woman and her faith.

St. Teresa of Avila was a Spanish mystic who dedicated her life to poverty, prayer, devotion, and writing. She is heavily credited with reforms of the Catholic church, especially in the cloisters. She was blessed with many visions and was dedicated to writing down her experiences, leaving behind multiple writings and devotionals still used today. She is another of the Catholic Church's Doctors of the Church, and one of only three women among the 33 Doctors.

However, she was not without great suffering. First of all, she was originally convinced that her visions were actually the work of demons, and so she subjected herself to extraordinary forms of mortification. Even once she was convinced otherwise, she maintained a strong ascetic lifestyle. Her work to form another Carmelite order was almost destroyed when she fell under the Spanish Inquisition, and only years of pleading with the king could stop it - only after she and her followers had been severely punished. Even her visions themselves were physically painful; the statue in Santa Maria della Vittoria portrays her in the midst of a vision where an angel pierced her heart and left her in combined pain and joy.

For many women of the early church, service as a mystic and ascetic were the only options available. Still, they suffered greatly to bring their vision forward and serve the church. While today we hope that people no longer have to suffer for their faith, we know that there are those across the world in suffering either mentally, socially, or even spiritually because of their belief in Christ. The life of people like St. Teresa remind us that while suffering might be inevitable due to faith, it can be endured with the sustaining power of the Holy Spirit.

Merciful God, be with those who suffer in this life because they proclaim your Son as Lord. Grant them relief, give them strength, and join us in solidarity with them. Help us always to do what is right for the good of our faith, and to never back down even when it might hurt. We ask these things in Christ's name, Amen.